Yellow94Gts said:

Yes

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And nothing

I’d say you are completely good to go gear wise and it just needs to be set back up.

I know Summit Racing carries the Ra-Tech parts if that’s a possibility.

Welcome to StangNet

Gotta pay homage to the LX now. After having a few stressful days I needed to get away from reality for a little while. I looked out the living room window as the sun got lower in the sky. A beautiful day.

I decided that since I don’t get the LX out much lately, what’s there to lose? Looked at my wife and told her I was taking a little ride around the block. I backed it out of the garage and dusted it off as the engine warmed up. That chemical exhaust smell was wafting me into that mood.

It was a slow cruise mostly on the through roads of the surrounding suburban neighborhoods. Perfect ambient temperature, windows down. An average of 30mph had me raking back and forth between 3rd and 4th. Approaching dusk on a mostly cloudy day made running lights only the lighting of choice. The stereo sounded fantastic, especially David Bowie Lets Dance, the base just pounding my body. A perfect hour long drive with virtually nobody in my way, not that I was trying to get anywhere fast.

I’m more relaxed now, thanks to an inanimate object, a car.

Humptydumpty? Should be a white mach 1

Rear floor patch under rear seat is done ,i just have to finish welding the front floor and grind the welds and put in the screw in brackets and it will be finished. I have the next three days free to work on it so i should finish easily by Sunday.

If it were me I would back all the rockers off and retest. This way you know they are supposed to be closed.

Ok… Deck me out with all your cool lights and I’ll photo bomb every site I find.

Does this car have something other than a standard differential (TractionLoc, posi, etc)?

Justin87 said:

Thanks so much for responding!

The transmission is running fine and shifting very well, ideally I'd love to just change the gasket for the cover to stop the leak. I have seen a lot of chatter about a spring or a band adjuster falling back into the pan or something (which i really do not want to have to remove again)... any concern there?

I'd love to keep the piston and everything in place and just fix this cover leak.

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I don't have a lot of experience with C4 transmissions other than doing a band adjustment and changing the fluid and filter, but I've never heard anything about parts falling into the pan.

2000Mustangguy said:

Thanks, I was wondering if the CCRM is bad, or the body control module, I have read where both of these could be the issue, the reset didn't work you sent, but thanks for trying to help me. I'll check on the CCRM. Thanks.

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Did you figure out the problem?

Facebook marketplace has muddied the water on pretty much everything on the used market.
If one person lists something worth $500 for $1000, each subsequent person does the same, then you have 10 gt40 tubular intakes all for sale and not sold at a grand. So what is it worth? Hard to tell because we never find out.
Right now there are 4 within driving distance of me, one just lowered the price to $900. While i don't want it (i had one) i'll bet he would take $750.
So some of the price increases are an illusion if you are a patient buyer, if you are impulsive, i guess a grand it is...

gotcha, cool. in that case I'm just going to swap to the 43mm taurus caliper on the rear to keep bias correct. I can upgrade to the cobra stuff later on down the road. got other things to spend that couple hundred bucks on right now, thanks!

Noobz347 said:

I really like the look of the Challenger. I'd gotten a few as rentals here and there while I was travelling. I didn't like how it handled (V8's included) but I never did drive any of their "Sports" versions. Just base V6 and V8s. I'd hope that the SCAT Pack versions handle a bit better?

On your drivetrain setup, since it sounds like you're tearing it all down anyhow, consider a full weight billet steel flywheel since you're going through all the efforts for streetability. It [does] make a difference and your trans might even thank you.

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I've actually considered that, but only for the ease of starting from a dead stop. My tuner and I have decided to start with an intake swap only, as the cam in my 347 in the Fox had even more overlap, yet he had it driving better than the SN. From there I very well may swap out the flywheel. Baby steps though. Im having to work on my patience and not jumping in too deep unnecessarily.

Possibly something in the clutch assembly but not too likely with it not making any noise in neutral or with the clutch depressed. I would suspect its in the transmission but the only way are going to know is to tear into it. I would not drive the car as you are probably making things worse by driving it. Link to the T5 service manual:

I will be there on Friday May 31.

I have a 96 mustang and my brakes are locking up after 20-30 mins of driving it and I have to turn the car off and wait like 30 mins for the brakes to unstick any idea of what the problem can be?

Done and installed

Yeah, @Bullitt347 already said that, though.

t1_5.0 said:

Hey guys, still on the hunt for the wiper control and hood light connectors. Can anyone help out with a picture so I know what I’m looking for. I’m think one of the previous owners eliminated it completely at the harness somewhere at the firewall but I can’t seem to find it.
This is what I got.

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I know it’s not a big ordeal but it’s one of those small things that’ll bother you till you get it right.

Hey reader just wanted to make a quick little note for people who way be needing to replace their rear abs sensor because it is faulty.

If you are from a place that snows and rust eats away at cars you might run into the problem of parts rusting into place. One of these things on mustangs are the rear abs sensors that attach to the axles. Most of the time when you take them out of the axle it destroys them and they cannot be reused.

So for people that want to to save a buck and not buy new sensors online off of a place like rock auto I have a solution.

You can just use the front abs sensors. They are a lot easier to get off an old car. And they are in the same ohm spec as the rear ones when I checked. Did this one my 94 and have no problems and working abs with no lights.

Cannot confirm on the newer models but 94 and 95 cars this can be done.

Though I would post this as it would have been helpful to me before. Sorry it took so many words to explain it though lol.

Hi I was just wondering if anyone could tell me what the 4 buttons do on the new edge mustang seats thinking about picking up some gt seats from a junk yard for my car as an upgrade form my v6 94 seats (want a seat that goes lower and has more bolstering).

Just though I would ask because I can’t test them out in the junk yard and no one online wants to post something as trivial as how the seats work.

So yea what are the best sn95 seats with nice features lumbar and all that nice stuff.

Mustang5L5 said:

If the car is driving fine as is, don't change a thing.


Lets say the ECU fails down the road and you get your hands on a good A9L. That's when you need to pay attention to a few things.

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Sounds good! Thank you

Even all the times I have done drum brakes I still leave one side on so I can go back and forth to see how its installed..
And I can remember seeing my first FRONT disc brake car come in to the Service Station I worked at while in High School... Think it was a 1st Gen Camaro......